Indonesians swear by jamu. Families have their own recipes carried on from one generation to the next. Spices, roots, and herbs such as turmeric, ginger, and tamarind are traditionally ground into a thick slurry with a mortar and pestle, then consumed as either a shot, warm drink, or a chilled refresher.
Jamu experienced a resurgence in Indonesia during the pandemic, as more people turned to food and drink that offered health benefits. It can now be found across the country, and jamu cafés, like Acaraki and Suwe Ora Jamu, opened by young artisans and entrepreneurs, have popped up across Indonesia. And the St. Regis Bali Bar has a cocktail loosely based on jamu, fortified by Beefeater gin.
Stateside, there is also a small yet growing jamu community brewing. Once feared too bitter and salty, some Indonesian-Americans have started to embrace their childhood drink.
Shanley Alya Suganda is a third-generation jamu maker and founder of …